Sundarban, Sikkim & Lava trip: Details

Sikkim – Sundarban – Lava trip was a crazy solo trip where I was constantly on the road spending crazy hours in shared jeeps mostly.

Usually, I prefer to spend more time in a single place than keep hopping. But this time, I decided to hop every day, esp because I was solo and didn’t want to feel the lack of company. In the end, it turned out to be yet another good trip. The places were good enough company for me… perhaps except Gangtok!

A few friends asked me about the trip expenses and if I would be providing a break-up like I did for Borneo.

So, here it is along with a few other stats.

1. Itinerary

12 days from 4 May to 16 May. 12N 12 D to be precise.

Day zero: Home – Airport – Kolkata. Stay in the airport (yeah, quite used to sleeping on chairs ;-) )

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Sundarbans – Drag net fishing

Prawn seed fishing is a prominent river-bank occupation in the Sundarbans, done mostly by the women and children who are usually forced to do it to supplement the meagre income of their families. (Men usually are engaged in honey collection, boat-fishing, pulling rickshaws, mono-crop agriculture etc)

Drag net fishing - 1

A rectangular net, as seen in pic, is immersed in the water and dragged along where the women (or children) wade through the clay bed in chest high water.

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Sikkim and Sundarbans

The backpack is ready!

After quite a while, am travelling again.

This time, it is solo backpacking to Sundarbans and then to Sikkim for 2 weeks.

The plan is to stay for 3 days in Sundarbans (in a not so easy to reach village where there is no electricity) and then to head to Sikkim for the Goecha la trek. I hope to find a group to join, else the cost of doing the 8-9 day Goecha La trek alone would be pretty high (and I don’t want that).

Here are a couple of pictures that I hastily clicked using my pocket camera.

Sorry, am in a hurry and this is all I can post for now. Will blog in detail later.

Camping in Nilgiris, a survey

Amazing Porthi ada

Most of you might already know that Nilgiris is one place that I love a lot!

I have been thinking of setting up a place in Nilgiris for sometime now. Though a full fledged place is not economically viable for me, esp given the changes in my life post March, I was wondering if I could start something small, off-beat and catering to a niche like camping. Of course, being able to run the place without having to be there all the time would be important too.

The kind of crowd I would want to attract is a niche group, but slowly on the rise in India… travellers, campers, birders, cyclists, etc. Not the typical tourist who would want all the bells and whistles of a luxury accommodation.

While I am on the lookout for places that fit my budget, taking my own sweet time , I would also like to do some market study and research too.  Your inputs here could be immensely helpful!

Could you please spare a couple of minutes to fill the survey below?

For your convenience, I have already chosen few options and made them the default so that you don’t have to click if you agree. Of course, they also indicate my choices too :-) .

Camping in Nilgiris:

[formidable id=2]

Wish you a fantastic 2011!

Wish you all a fantastic 2011!

May all your dreams come true! May the travel gods smile upon you! May your bikes take you places! May your cameras click wonderful images! May you live the life you always wanted to! May there be more leaves when you want to travel! :-)

May your life be wonderful!!!

2010 through the rear-view mirror:

2010 to me was fantastic in terms of travel and photography!! Initially, I thought I would do a full fledged year review, but thought year reviews are too personal and hence wanted to save you the trouble of reading through yet another boring review.

So, I thought I will just list a few memorable moments of 2010.


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Todas

Yethad, Dhordhay, Aapar,… well, neither Greek nor Latin,these are typical Toda names!

Toda tribal in NilgirisOne of the earliest settlers of Nilgiris, the ‘Toduvar’ or Todas as they are popularly known are tall and sturdily built people with a unique culture and a phonologically difficult language. A pastoral tribe, these people are (were) lacto vegetarians with the buffalo being the center of almost all activity. It is indeed sad that their number is on the decline… to such extent that it is often said that there are more articles on Todas than their actual numbers!

The most striking feature of a properly attired Toda today is his skillfully embroidered red, black and white shawl (no, not the one worn by the guy on the left… that’s just an ordinary shawl ), worn such that his right shoulder is exposed… the embroidering being done in-house by women. The embroidered shawl is a much sought-after souvenir today!

Living in unique looking half-barrel shaped houses made of bamboo reed, specific grass, rattan cane, etc with a door so small that one would have to squeeze in, these people live (led… as their traditional methods are fast disappearing) a spartan life, just like most other mountain communities.

In the past, they have been known to have practised ‘fraternal polyandry’, where a woman married all the brothers of a family… a practise that could have arisen out of a demand-supply gap with only 3 women per 5 men! Or perhaps their affiliation as ‘Pandav putras’ could explain it partially too. This practise has long been discontinued.

Visit any Toda temple, you will notice a large round shaped stone! Any Toda male who wished to marry had to lift this heavy stone to prove his worthiness to the girl and her family… a practise that has been discontinued 20-30 years back.

Okay, instead of boring you any further, request you to watch this pretty well made documentary in 3 parts on Todas that I found on Youtube. The video appears to jump at places, but neverthless is wonderful!

Enjoy Nilgiris!!!

Backpacking in Borneo-11: Epilogue

Okay folks! Time to wind up living in Borneo!

Filipino market

This is mostly a meta-post about previously written posts to give a better perspective of my trip. Also, I will try to cover a couple of things I haven’t spoken about yet.

First, thanks to the people who made this trip possible and a successful one.

  • My wife who was pretty cool about me leaving her and going to an exotic location for 10 days
  • Adarsh for being a wonderful companion and for all the painstaking research on Borneo
  • The kind-hearted taxi driver who helped us at Kota Kinabalu
  • Tong Ali, our amazing and friendly guide at Uncle Tan
  • Lan, Olong and other friendly guys at Uncle Tan
  • Yunus, our soft-spoken and gentle guide for the Mt Kinabalu climb
  • Jenny, the energetic guide at Gunung Mulu

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Bangalore to Melkote: A day trip

“Nann hesaru Basappa antha, illi thumba varushadindha iddinee (my name is Basappa, I’ve been here since many years)”, the Dasayya at the Kalyani (pond) in Melkote tells me, polishing his brass vessel with lemon.

Melkote Basappa

Every morning, he comes to the Kalyani near the temple and performs religious tasks for devotees at a small fee. His day starts early… applying the Vishnu nama on his forehead, polishing his brass vessel and plate, cleaning the shanka (conch) and jagate (stick to hit the plate)… and then approaching devotees offering his service.

Living this way is the only thing he knows. Clearly, life for this Dasayya revolves around the temple. Before I could ask him more questions, ‘clients’ arrive and I thank him for his time and leave.

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